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Capacitor Information, technical note. Site Created 08/10/96 Page updated 12/09/11 Vintage Belt KITS Capacitors! Dial Lamps
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What
is polarity? - An electrical condition determining the direction
in which current tends to flow. Hence, negative (-), positive (+).
What
does "almost always" mean? - There are always exceptions. You may
find one marked differently, who knows!!
What exactly is a capacitor, and
how do we read theses things? The basic unit of capacitance is the Farad, named after the Michael
Faraday. Prior to the 1970's, capacitors were also called condensers. Same
part, same function, different name. You'll still hear the old name used by
some radio technicians. You will certainly see it in old schematics.
Capacitance is usually measured in microfarads abbreviated µF, nanofarads
(nf), or picoFarads (pF). However through the years "uf" had many other
acronyms. For example a 40uf may be read as 40 mF, 40 MF, 40 mfd,
40 MFD. The unit Farad is used in converting formulas and other
calculations. A µF (microFarad) is one millionth of a Farad (10-6
F) and a picofarad (pf) is one-millionth of a microFarad (10-12
F).
I guess you would really like to know how to read all those different codes. Not to worry, it is not as difficult as it appears. Some capacitors just tell you right out. Take your electrolytic and large body types of capacitors: These usually have the value printed on the body. For example: 100µF 250V, or something like that would be imprinted in plain text. It would also have marks pointing to the negative end of the capacitor. For more information about this CLICK HERE.
Start here for the smaller non-polarised and old type capacitors! It's mostly the smaller caps will have two or three numbers printed on them, some with one or two letters added to that value. Take a look at the table below.
TABLE A
| 102 | 10+00 | =1,000pf | 1nf | .001uf | 333 | 33+000 | 33,000pf | 33nf | 0.033uf | |
| 103 | 10+000 | =10,000pf | 10nf | .01uf | 334 | 33+0000 | 330,000pf | 330nf | 0.33uf | |
| 104 | 10+0000 | =100,000pf | 100nf | .1uf | 472 | 47+00 | 4,700pf | 4.7nf | 0.0047uf | |
| 222 | 22+00 | =2,200pf | 2.2nf | .0022uf | 473 | 47+000 | 47000pf | 47nf | 0.047uf | |
| 223 | 22+000 | =22,000pf | 22nf | .022uf | 502 | 50+00 | 5,000 | 5nf | 0.005uf | |
| 224 | 22+0000 | 220,000pf | 220nf | .22uf | 503 | 50+000 | 50,000pf | 50nf | 0.05uf | |
| 332 | 33+00 | 3300pf | 3.3nf | .0033uf | 504 | 50+0000 | 500,000pf | 500nf | 0.5uf |
Other capacitors may
just have 0.1 or 0.01 printed on them. If so, this represents the value
in µF. Thus, 0.1 means just 0.1 µF. If you want this value in nanofarads
(nf) just move the decimal three places to the right which makes it 100nF
capacitor. Some caps will have a value then a letter. For example .068K. In
this case its a .068uf 10% capacitor. Take a look at FIG
2.
The chart below is a simple conversion chart. It will
help you understand how we convert uf to pf and nf.
FIG 2:Converting uf-nf-pf
| microFarads (µF) | nanoFarads (nF) | picoFarads (pF) | ||
| 0.000001µF | = | 0.001nF | = | 1pF |
| 0.00001µF | = | 0.01nF | = | 10pF |
| 0.0001µF | = | 0.1nF | = | 100pF |
| 0.001µF | = | 1nF | = | 1000pF |
| 0.01µF | = | 10nF | = | 10,000pF |
| 0.1µF | = | 100nF | = | 100,000pF |
| 1µF | = | 1000nF | = | 1,000,000pF |
| 10µF | = | 10,000nF | = | 10,000,000pF |
| 100µF | = | 100,000nF | = | 100,000,000pF |
Decoding the Old Capacitors
This chart will help figure out those codes on the Mica molded type capacitors. However, they rarely go bad. I don't think I ever found a bad one myself. Keep in mind this translates them to pf or MMF. Don't worry they both mean the same thing. This example below would translate to 47pf, or 47MMF.
In the picture below you will see two of the most common types of mark ups. In the top picture the 1st digit can also be silver or black. This is done so you know the proper orientation before you decipher the value. In the lower picture the two N/A positions can be blank (no color added).
Plastic or bakelite round capacitors (bumble bee)
By this time you should realize the color code is pretty universal. Decoding may change from device to device. These read a lot like resistors.Keep in mind, like before, this decodes to MMF and is equal to PF.
I find most of these in televisions and amplifiers. Sometimes in foreign radios. However the format is always the same. Other round plastic or bakelite capacitors may have the value printed right on the body. I am sure we have all seen these, and there is no need decoding them. Some have a white band on one end, and like these that defines the negative or outside foil connection.
Identify your capacitors polarity:
Lets start with two of the most common: Radial (wires coming out the bottom) and Axial (wires coming out the sides)
In the example above you will notice five different ways to show polarity. There are more, but I think this will be enough to get the point. The arrows and stripes are "almost always" present. You will find many variations of this as well. They always depict the negative lead. The fifth way to find the negative is the shorter lead.
In this
example above you will find an added way to figure out the polarity.
Remember these are marked with arrows and strips just like the radial caps
at the top. Almost always pointing to the negative end. On axial caps
though, we can find the polarity just by looking for the aluminum housing.
The aluminum housing is almost always the negative end. The other end will
have a rubber seal, sometimes epoxy or glass, but always insulated from the
housing. If you see no marks, or both sides are insulated, then you may have
a non-polarised electrolytic capacitor. You would find these in crossover
networks, speakers, and some amplifier circuit boards. Other than that, this
should help for 99% of them.
NOW, a couple things
about capacitors with out a polarity!
Take a look at these. The
first one has no markings at all. This is a normal axial capacitor. This is
the most common type found in early radios, and televisions. As well as most
early electronic devices. They used paper and oil as a dielectric. The new
capacitors use a metalized poly film. Called a dry capacitor. The new one
will never dry out on you, will last your lifetime PLUS, and will perform
just as good if not better than the original.
The next capacitor is
basically the same except they do have a mark for a polarity. Not
necessarily for Positive and Negative. This mark denotes which side is
connected to the outside foil. The mark will be a stripe running all around
the body of the capacitor. The reasons for the marking has to do with
coupling in Hi Fi amps. If you use these correctly they will cut down noise
generated internally in the amp. You would want to connect the marked end in
a special way so the out side foil doesn't interfere with another component.
Or can help eliminate interference from other components.
Most people call these
audio caps, because they are primarily used in critical, or high end
amplifier circuits.
Well that's
it. I want to keep it simple and informative. I hope you found it to be
both. Now you can use this guide to insure you install your caps correctly.
Keep in mind this coves only some capacitors. Since I specialize in antique
radios I stuck with the most common types. The photo on the left shows us
some examples for the scematic symbol of a
capacitor.
Did you know why
most Antique Radios fail to work?
Most antique
radio failures are due to dried out CAPACITORS. Most capacitors are made
with foil and a dielectric. As time goes by the material used as a
dielectric can dissipate from the body of a capacitor, causing it to fail.
Sometimes they short causing other failures, but most of them just OPEN-UP,
or drift beyond its designed tolerance. In some case the electronic circuit
acts as though the capacitor isn't even in the circuit. Just replacing a
couple capacitors can repair most antique radios. Most of those are due to
FILTER CAPACITORS failing. How many radios have you powered up only to hear
a loud annoying hum, or nothing at all? A filter capacitor is a major
component used to turn AC current into DC current. I don't know of any radio
that actually uses AC current in the electronics! This will explain where
the hum comes from, and why. For a couple bucks you can repair this problem
yourself!
Example 1.1 shows you a very basic working DC power supply output. Notice the (B+), clean and flat! As it should be!
This example, 1.2, shows what the output looks like when the capacitor is not there OR when it's OPEN.
This condition is called a ripple. The ripple causes the loud hum, because the noise is amplified through the circuit of the radio. Due to its overwhelming characteristics the volume control may not work either! If you hear nothing at all, then chances are the capacitor is shorted and giving you no voltage. In some cases very little.
WHAT ABOUT CAPACITOR VALUES?
Actually the exact replacement value only has to be close. In most circuits the value can be doubled, even tripled. Too much filtering doesn't hurt in this case. For example, a 12mf (microfarad) capacitor can be replaced by a 10mf or 20mf. I would go with a higher value before a lower one though. Typically your best bet would be to stay within + or - 20% of the original value.
WHAT ABOUT VOLTAGE RATINGS?
Never replace a capacitor with one rated
below the original capacitors voltage! HOWEVER, a replacement rated above
the original value is acceptable. That's about it. If the original value is
350 volts, then any voltage rating higher is acceptable. The voltage rating
on a capacitor is a maximum value. A 400-volt, 450-volt, or even 600-volt
can be used to replace a 350 volt capacitor.
WHAT ABOUT DUAL OR MUTIPLE CAPACITORS?
Dual or multiple capacitors are capacitors
with more than one capacitor inside a single package. BUT, They don't have
to be inside a single package. They are used to simplify the manufacturing
of the radios. In fact it would be a better bet to replace these capacitors
with single capacitors. Multiple capacitors cost more and are harder to
find. You will also find that sometimes only one of the capacitors in the
package is bad. If you did have single capacitors, you could replace just
one at a lower cost. In any case take a look at example 2.1
Take a close look at the value and voltage
ratings on the replacement capacitors. This is a prime example concerning
values and voltages. If there were a forth wire, then you would add a third
capacitor. See example 2.2 below. Save yourself the heartache and expense
trying to find a replacement.
LETS USE UP THE CAPS YOU ALREADY HAVE
Here are a few other things you can do
with capacitors. This is great if you have capacitors already and don't need
to spend the extra money on more! In example 3.1 you will see how we can
make a 50mf cap from two 25mf caps.
> Notice the voltage values are different.
In this case the total voltage can NOT be higher then the lowest voltage
value. This is now a 50mf, 160-volt capacitor. Now take a look what happens
when we add another capacitor. Example 3.2 is now a 100mf 160-volt
capacitor. I guess you got the point by now. This is called a parallel
design. Just remember capacitors add up in this configuration.
Now lets make a 12mf out of two 25mf
capacitors. What we want now is a configuration that divides capacitor
values. Simply put Series configuration. Example 3.3 will show the
differences.
Now lets review. Always watch your
voltage ratings! Always watch your polarity (notice the + on all my
examples) these are called electrolytic capacitors because they have a
polarity. Be sure you discharge your capacitors before you handel them. For
any questions e-mail
me, to order caps CLICK HERE I have limited values to start! I will continue to add stock, and I
will continue to ADD technical notes. Did you know why
most Antique Radios fail to work II?
Most antique radios failures are due to
dried out CAPACITORS. Most capacitors are made with foil and a dielectric.
As time goes by the material used as a dielectric can dissipate from the
body of a capacitor, causing it to fail. Sometimes they short causing other
failures, but most of them just OPEN-UP. The electronic circuit acts as
though the capacitor isn't even in the circuit. Just replacing a couple
capacitors can repair most antique radios. You may hear nothing, or you may
experience a loss of selectivity and/or sensitivity. This will help to
explain why for a couple bucks you can repair these problems yourself with a
few capacitors!
Example 1.1 shows you a very basic
working bypass filter. Used here to ensure AC does not get through, but DC
does.
This example, 1.2, shows just the
opposite. This will allow AC through, but not DC.
Example 1.2 could be used as an input
signal conditioner on an amplifier. Blocking DC, which can damage your
speakers as well as your amp. However it will allow AC or audio (AC in many
frequencies) to pass. If it were to open then nothing would get through. Or
the output may sound weak and distorted. On a very basic scale AC sees a
capacitor as a short circuit. DC sees a capacitor as an open. SOOOO, why use
capacitors in a DC circuit? One reason we already know. To block AC and or
noise. If we read the previous Tech Notes, we also know they are used to
filter DC. With a couple more components we use capacitors for oscillators,
band pass filters, and so on. We won't go that far. Beside I'm not sure if I
can! I want to keep this simple to insure it could aid anyone.
WHAT ABOUT CAPACITOR VALUES
Actually the exact replacement value only
has to be close. For example, a 0.56mf (microfarad) capacitor can be
replaced by a 0.47mf, 0.50mf or 0.68mf. Typically your best bet would be to
stay within + or - 20% of the original value. Remember the original parts
were not very accurate. That's why old electronics has so many adjustments.
You could not replace a 0.1 with a 0.01 though. Notice the decimal points.
However a 0.15mf can be replaced by a 0.18mf in most cases. If you find a
circuit that calls for a certain value with a 5% or better tolerance, then
you should get an exact replacement if possible.
WHAT ABOUT VOLTAGE RATINGS
Never replace a capacitor with one rated
below the original capacitors voltage! HOWEVER, a replacement rated above
the original value is acceptable. That's about it. If the original value is
630 volts, then any voltage rating higher is acceptable. The voltage rating
on a capacitor is a maximum value. A 630-volt, 1000-volt, or even 1200-volt
can be used to replace a 600 volt capacitor.
LETS USE UP THE CAPS YOU ALREADY HAVE
Here are a few other things you can do with capacitors.
This is great if you have capacitors already and don't need to spend the
extra money on more! In example 3.1 you will see how we can make a 0.1mf cap
from two 0.047mf caps. It's simple they add up in this configuration, called
parallel. Notice there are no polarities. These are non-polarized
capacitors. So the direction does not matter.
In this case the total voltage cannot be higher then
the lowest voltage value. This is now a 0.1mf, 400-volt capacitor. Now take
a look what happens when we add another capacitor. Example 3.2 is now a
0.2mf 200-volt capacitor. I guess you got the point by now. Again the total
voltage cannot exceed the lowest voltage value capacitor.
Now lets make a 0.047mf out of two
0.1mf capacitors. What we want now is a configuration that divides capacitor
values. Simply put, Series configuration. Example 3.3 will show the
differences.
Now lets
review: Always watch your voltage ratings! Use the lowest voltage value
when connecting in series OR parallel. Always discharge capacitors before handling them. Capacitors can hold
a charge for a long period of time.
For any questions see
my web page www.wjoe.com, to order caps
www.wjoe.com/capacitors.htm
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